Only days after I flew to BC and before we got to move in into our new place in Vancouver, we started to cross some of the iconic local hikes off our list. If you’ve ever thought about hiking around Vancouver, you have probably heard about the Chief–the granite monolith in Squamish, BC less than an hour away from the city.
The Chief is claimed to be the second largest granite monolith in the world (after the Rock of Gibraltar) and it is well-known among rock climbers and hikers alike. To me, it looked a lot like a smaller version of Yosemite’s Half Dome with the added benefit of a much less strenuous hike, no need to win a lottery to get to the top, and a stunning view of the Pacific coast.
The Chief has three peaks: South (1), Middle (2), and North (3). All three peaks can be hiked in a single day, probably in 5 hours or so. We went on a hike as a small group of hikers with different fitness levels, so we decided to do the South Peak only because it is told to be the “easiest” one. It is also the most popular one, so I would try to do this hike early in the morning if you plan your visit on a weekend. The trail is well marked and you will reach several forks: to get to the South Peak, always keep left on the trail and follow the signs towards Peak 1.
We parked by the Shannon Falls for free. There are nice bathrooms at that parking as well. We enjoyed the falls for a little while, then followed the signs to the Chief. The signs indicate that the South Peak is 2.5 k away, which seems like not much, but be prepared to gain around 600 m during an almost entirely vertical climb.
I heard others compare this hike to the Grouse Grind, which I am yet to experience. The hike to the Chief is a steep rocky path, with many wooden steps and stairs. You will sweat a lot! Luckily, the hike is almost entirely under the cover of trees in a lush rain forest. The trail makes its way around beautiful rocky formations covered in a moth.
About 2/3 of the way into your hike, you will reach an opening on a large rock. This is not the top yet, but it is a great stop for a short break. You will be able to see the new Sea to Sky Gondola making its way up on one of the tree-covered slopes ahead of you.
After your break, prepare to climb for another 15-20 minutes or so before you get to the most fun part of the hike. As you reach the smooth granite top of the Chief, you will have to scramble to the top using your hands, ladders, and chains. I recommend having hiking boots on for a surer footing on the rock.
Although this part of the hike might sound intimidating, do not fear it! There are no open face cliffs and you always feel quite protected by the smooth rock around you. Just take your time on the ladders to make sure you don’t slip, have your hands free from your camera or water bottle, and work together with your hiking partners to spot each other.
Right after the fun scramble, you are rewarded with the large smooth rocky mass of the South Peak. Walk up to see the town of Squamish below you, the Middle peak of the Chief on your right, and the dark pointy peak of the Black Tusk mountain on the horizon (which still had some snow at the time of our hike).
I took photos of the top of the Middle Peak of the Chief, where you could see hikers using the chains to get down:
Enjoy the view at the top, and prepare for another 2.5 k to get down. The hike down is probably as challenging as your legs will feel like jello and you have to be extra careful coming down the stairs and the steep rocks. I would highly recommend hiking sticks for those with troubled knees to use on your way down.
We drove into town after our hike to drink some local beers and enjoy the view of the Chief at Howe Sound Brewing. We saw rock climbers on the face of the Chief during our drive. Can you spot them below?
I thought that the Chief was an ideal hike to do in less than half a day. The 1 hr drive to the spot is beautiful as it takes you along the Sea to Sky Highway. Choose a peak to hike and do it in 2-3 hours round trip (if you do a single peak). Drive back into the city. The whole trip would take you 4-5 hours given that you pack your own food and won’t have to stop for lunch after the hike.
The trail is strenuous but short enough that the workout does not tire you out completely. You also get a lot of shade on the hike and the reward of the most fantastic panorama of Howe Sound and the nearby mountains from the top. I also loved the adventurous bit closer to the peak with the scramble, chains, and ladders. I would definitely do this hike again and bring my visiting family and friends along in the future!
If you would like to see more photos of the hike, please visit my Flickr album.
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