The goal was not to spend Christmas in Paris; but we get two weeks off work around winter holidays and, this year, the goal was to use the time to travel to Europe. Paris was just the first city on the list: it’s so easy to get to on a direct overnight flight from Toronto and Paris is always a good idea.
We found a great Airnbnb in Bastille. The area turned out to be great. It was central enough that it was easy to get to major attractions, but it was also removed enough that we felt shielded from the typical touristy bustle of Paris. Our host left the key for us at a local coffee shop and we ended up having our very first meal after landing there. Dwayne shook his head as he took a sip of the coffee — “Unbelievable.” He knows it, but is still astonished every time to learn just how good all of the food is in France. As we ate, I looked out of the window at the Viaduc des Artes–a sort of Parisian high line–that I was trying really hard to remember as being featured in Before Sunset.
This winter in Paris was incredibly mild. The flower beds had blooming rose bushes. The trees blossomed as if it were April. The sun shone and we were able to lounge around the parks comfortably. There were strikes over newly proposed pension laws, and most of the public transportation did not run. The mild weather helped to accommodate all of the walking that we had to do because of transit closures.
We shopped at Marché d’Aligre and I was astonished by the amount of fresh produce Parisians had access to in winter: leaks, potatoes, collard greens, persimmons, citrus fruit of different kinds, grapes from Italy, wild picked mushrooms, pomegranates, pineapples. There were stands with fresh flowers and I loved the Christmas arrangements that featured spring flowers like fragrant hyacinths and hellebores. We even endured the lines of Parisians shopping on Christmas eve to stock up on Bordier butter at a local fromagerie before we left the country. We were lucky enough to have Boulangerie Bo as our daily go to place for a fresh baguette.
Christmas time is lovely in Paris. There are numerous Christmas markets. There are larger central ones like the one in the Tuileries but also many smaller ones in every neighbourhood. At every market there were mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, a carousel that lights up at night, decorated fluffy Christmas trees, music, and numerous vendors selling goods. The larger markets featured a skating rink and larger rides and entertainment for kids. We were mostly there for mulled wine and the lights at night; we also got some inexpensive glass Christmas ornaments at one of the markets.
We endured the crowds at Galeries Lafayette to see the spectacular Christmas tree suspended from the ceiling. The roof has a free viewing terrace and it’s worth a visit any time you are in Paris.
For Christmas Eve dinner, we got a reservation at Julien Bouillon because it was one of the inexpensive choices and offered vegetarian options. The meal was not my favourite but I would come back for the venue and the prices! Speaking of favourite meals, we returned to a place called Sathees around Luxembourg gardens. It’s a great way to take a break from the typically fatty french fair at an accessible price point. The staff is friendly and will do their best to talk you through the menu even if you don’t speak French. Instead of ordering a cocktail, get a bottle of wine at Marks & Spencer next door and walk to the Luxembourg gardens to drink it.
